This article will be a true feast for sweet tooths. But before we dive into indulgence, let me take you to southern France - a region renowned for producing the finest sweets in the country.
Calissons are one of Provenceโs sweetest symbols. And while you can buy them in many places across southern France, the best ones are found in specialty shops under the brands Calissons dโAix Lรฉonard Parli and Le Roy Renรฉ.
For decades, both producers have been competing for the top spot in the category of the most flavorful confections. While Le Roy Renรฉ is widely recognized in Provence and has strong marketing and public relations, Calissons dโAix Lรฉonard Parli wins the hearts of gourmets with a more intense flavor and a longer tradition of production.
GOOD TO KNOW: Calissons dโAix Lรฉonard Parli has been crafting these sweets since 1874, while Le Roy Renรฉ started producing calissons in 1920.
๐ฐ Hรดtel Escaletto - Hotel close to central Aix.
๐จ Hรดtel des Augustins - Hotel in a former monastery in central Aix.
๐ Hรดtel Saint-Christophe - Elegant Art Deco hotel in central Aix.
The History of Calissons
How did calissons earn their place among the most iconic Provenรงal sweets? The story of this delicacy is far from ordinary, dating back to 1454, during the wedding of King Renรฉ and Queen Jeanne. To celebrate the occasion, royal confectioners prepared tiny treats meant to win over the queenโs palate.
The result exceeded expectations-each time the usually stern queen tasted the sweets, a smile appeared on her face. When she asked what they were called, the confectioners responded with โDi calin soun,โ which in the Provenรงal language of the time meant โthese are hugs.โ Thus, the name โcalissonsโ was born, and the delightful confections became a permanent part of Provenceโs history as the only treats capable of bringing a smile to Queen Jeanneโs face.
Visiting the Calissons Museum and Factory in Aix-en-Provence
When in Aix-en-Provence, a visit to the Le Roy Renรฉ factory is a must, located just 10 minutes from the city center. In this unique place, youโll have the chance to see firsthand how the most famous Provenรงal sweets are made. Youโll witness the selection of the finest quality almonds, melons, and oranges, learn about the meticulous process of their preparation, and discover why itโs such a time-intensive operation. And thatโs not all - thanks to modern technology, at the Musรฉe du Calisson, you can even participate in a virtual production experience of these delightful French confections.
You can end your visit in the Jardins du Roy, the royal gardens filled with almond trees. Exploring the gardens also includes a wealth of knowledge about these trees and the history of almond cultivation in the Provence region.
Where to Buy the Best Calissons?
If you plan to visit the Calissons Museum mentioned earlier, thereโs no need to worry about stocking up on these sweet treats. The museum features an on-site shop where you can purchase freshly made calissons directly from the producer. Le Roy Renรฉ shops are also available in many Provenรงal cities, including Nice, Cannes, Aix-en-Provence, Toulon, Salon-de-Provence, Antibes, Marseille, and Arles.
If you prefer to try Lรฉonard Parli calissons, youโll need to visit Aix-en-Provence, as the brandโs boutiques are currently located only in this city. You can also find calissons from both producers in stores run by local tourist centers or souvenir shops.
Sweet Tours with a Guide in Aix-en-Provence
French sweets go far beyond calissons, and the best way to explore this variety is by visiting specialized boutiques offering nougat, macarons, sweet madeleines, pralines, candied almonds, and nuts. I had the opportunity to experience the diversity of French confections firsthand during one of the guided tours in Aix-en-Provence (link here).
During the two-hour walking tour, the guide shared fascinating stories and insights about French cuisine and took me to the best shops specializing in traditional Provenรงal sweets. In each of these locations, I had the chance to taste and purchase their delicacies while learning about their production process from the source. I highly recommend such gastronomic tours to anyone eager to discover a unique aspect of the city theyโre visiting.
Hotels in Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence is the home of calissons, and the best place to stay is in the centre, close to the Cours Mirabeau. Here are three handpicked options for different budgets.
๐ฐ Hรดtel Escaletto
Three-star hotel in central Aix-en-Provence, a minuteโs walk from the Thermes Sextius spa and 550 metres from Cours Mirabeau. Rooms have a terrace with panoramic views over the town and Mont Sainte-Victoire. A buffet breakfast is served each morning. Thereโs a bar and private parking on site.
๐จ Hรดtel des Augustins
Hotel within the walls of a 12th-century monastery in the heart of old Aix-en-Provence, right by Cours Mirabeau. The interiors combine historic architecture with modern design, and the lobby is hugely impressive. Spacious rooms are air-conditioned and have a minibar. A continental breakfast is served each morning.
๐ Hรดtel Saint-Christophe
Hotel in central Aix-en-Provence, 400 metres from the town centre and less than a kilometre from Saint-Sauveur Cathedral. Thereโs a restaurant, bar, gym and terrace on site. The hotel has private parking. Reception is open 24 hours.
