This article will be a true feast for sweet tooths. But before we dive into indulgence, let me take you to southern France – a region renowned for producing the finest sweets in the country.
Calissons are one of Provence’s sweetest symbols. And while you can buy them in many places across southern France, the best ones are found in specialty shops under the brands Calissons d’Aix Léonard Parli and Le Roy René.
For decades, both producers have been competing for the top spot in the category of the most flavorful confections. While Le Roy René is widely recognized in Provence and has strong marketing and public relations, Calissons d’Aix Léonard Parli wins the hearts of gourmets with a more intense flavor and a longer tradition of production.
GOOD TO KNOW: Calissons d’Aix Léonard Parli has been crafting these sweets since 1874, while Le Roy René started producing calissons in 1920.
The History of Calissons
How did calissons earn their place among the most iconic Provençal sweets? The story of this delicacy is far from ordinary, dating back to 1454, during the wedding of King René and Queen Jeanne. To celebrate the occasion, royal confectioners prepared tiny treats meant to win over the queen’s palate.
The result exceeded expectations—each time the usually stern queen tasted the sweets, a smile appeared on her face. When she asked what they were called, the confectioners responded with “Di calin soun,” which in the Provençal language of the time meant “these are hugs.” Thus, the name “calissons” was born, and the delightful confections became a permanent part of Provence’s history as the only treats capable of bringing a smile to Queen Jeanne’s face.
Visiting the Calissons Museum and Factory in Aix-en-Provence
When in Aix-en-Provence, a visit to the Le Roy René factory is a must, located just 10 minutes from the city center. In this unique place, you’ll have the chance to see firsthand how the most famous Provençal sweets are made. You’ll witness the selection of the finest quality almonds, melons, and oranges, learn about the meticulous process of their preparation, and discover why it’s such a time-intensive operation. And that’s not all – thanks to modern technology, at the Musée du Calisson, you can even participate in a virtual production experience of these delightful French confections.
You can end your visit in the Jardins du Roy, the royal gardens filled with almond trees. Exploring the gardens also includes a wealth of knowledge about these trees and the history of almond cultivation in the Provence region.
Where to Buy the Best Calissons?
If you plan to visit the Calissons Museum mentioned earlier, there’s no need to worry about stocking up on these sweet treats. The museum features an on-site shop where you can purchase freshly made calissons directly from the producer. Le Roy René shops are also available in many Provençal cities, including Nice, Cannes, Aix-en-Provence, Toulon, Salon-de-Provence, Antibes, Marseille, and Arles.
If you prefer to try Léonard Parli calissons, you’ll need to visit Aix-en-Provence, as the brand’s boutiques are currently located only in this city. You can also find calissons from both producers in stores run by local tourist centers or souvenir shops.
Sweet Tours with a Guide in Aix-en-Provence
French sweets go far beyond calissons, and the best way to explore this variety is by visiting specialized boutiques offering nougat, macarons, sweet madeleines, pralines, candied almonds, and nuts. I had the opportunity to experience the diversity of French confections firsthand during one of the guided tours in Aix-en-Provence (link here).
During the two-hour walking tour, the guide shared fascinating stories and insights about French cuisine and took me to the best shops specializing in traditional Provençal sweets. In each of these locations, I had the chance to taste and purchase their delicacies while learning about their production process from the source. I highly recommend such gastronomic tours to anyone eager to discover a unique aspect of the city they’re visiting.
